Kathmandu, Nepal
6:00pm
Thundershowers, mid 80's

[Via e-mail. No Real Audio]

Howdy from Kathmandu! This is Eric Brown reporting for Patagonia Mountain Agency. The crew is starting to split up. Barbara left this morning for Poland. Ian and Omar picked up their wife (Ian) and girlfriend (Omar) at the airport this afternoon, and are moving to new digs, but I'll be having breakfast manana with them. They then will spend a week, or so, exploring Nepal and trekking in the Annapurna Sanctuary region. Masaru, with only one flight a week to Japan from Nepal, has lots of time to explore and he will be leaving tomorrow for other places. Talli, Jacek, and I leave for Bangkok, also tomorrow, at 1:30pm, and after one day in Bangkok, will journey to the western coast for relaxing on the beach (it's near Kho Pe Pe... sorry, I don't know the spelling yet, but heard it has a super coastline, cliffs, etc, plus a James Bond movie was filmed there... ooooo!). And Rysard will be heading back to Poland in 2 days, to be greeted by loads of journalists at the airport. Our expedition is big news in Poland, especially given the circumstances.

Kathmandu is a bit cleaner now, because the rains (the start of the monsoon), have washed away much of the grime that had accumulated when we first arrived in April. The mornings are still cool and other than the goopy streets, "life is good", as Pasang says. The Sherpas are hanging out here too, buying household items and taking it easy. Everyone (all the guys) has gotten a hair cut. Kalu had all his hair, and beard, shaved off. For $1 US, you can't beat it. Jacek and I went to Mr. Deepak Chopra. As promised I only had my beard trimmed, but Jacek, crazy man, got a full straight razor cut. He's smooth now and no blood lost. They also, after cutting your hair, offer a head massage. But it's really only a series of slaps and poundings and unusual hand noises, which only serve to hasten your exit. I'll demonstrate on anyone when I return... it's at least fun for the masseuse. On top of that... you'd think I would have given up.... I got a back rub, thinking "I've been sleeping on rocks for 2 months... nice". Hah!! Torture is more like it. I'm serious, there were times I had to grit my teeth to avoid yelling out. Granted a couple moves were nice, but these guys must learn their technique on water buffaloes.

Well, the first night we were back we all went to the famed Everest Steakouse. And we feasted. Everyone (except Talli) had MEAT (steaks). Masaru and I split a 6 pound Chateau Briand... I ate all of my half. Last night we treated Pasang and Pema to dinner at the Rum Doodle.. a climber hangout. Then, with much whooping and yelling, Jacek and Rysard signed their names on the "wall of summitteers" behind the bar, and from now on they are entitled to free meals and drinks. There were also some south side expeditions there and we verbally dueled about the toughness of our respective climbing routes.

Tonight we have another dinner, with most everyone, including the head of Asian Trekking, at the Hotel Guary Shankar (where we are staying). So I'll be off to comb my hair. It's been a filling trip so far and I expect a final closing message from Alaska (about June 3rd) to end this expedition. With everyone going their separate ways tomorrow it will officially end the expedition. It will definitely feel a bit wierd, after spending so much time with one set of people, and so many memories, good and bad, to move on. But we are all looking forward to the change, back to work, routines, and especially home. It's been good.