Chena River Waterfront: Section 4.1 Archaeological Fieldwork

Weaver, Robert M., and Peter M. Bowers (1998) 4.1 Archaeological Fieldwork. In Historical Development of the Chena River Waterfront, Fairbanks, Alaska: An Archaeological Perspective, edited and compiled by Peter M. Bowers and Brian L. Gannon, CD-ROM. Alaska Department of Transportation and Public Facilities, Fairbanks.

The fieldwork followed a phased approach. Initial excavations focused on testing to determine whether significant archaeological materials remained within the project effect corridor. Once we confirmed that historic potential existed, the project team, in consultation with State Historic Preservation Office (SHPO) and ADOT & PF archaeologists, designed and implemented an excavation strategy to mitigate expected impacts. The following section introduces the areas investigated, discusses decisions relating to National Register significance, and summarizes findings.

Test Excavations

ADOT & PF specified seven areas where cultural materials had been identified or were suspected within the construction right-of-way (Figure 4.1).¹ These are the "operational areas" as described below (Figures 1.2, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4). The operational units relate to differing areas of historical activities, but also represent archaeological management areas that enabled us to record historic resources. The following are the basic operational areas we investigated:

Figure 4.1. Map of project area showing location of 1992 and 1993 areas of investigation, historic building outlines, and areas of proposed impacts.

Area A is located along the south bank of the Chena River and immediately west of Barnette Street. This area was initially selected because of its presumed association with the Pioneer Dock, although subsequent archaeology showed closer associations with local First Avenue² businesses. It lies across the street from the California Saloon, and received refuse dumping from early Fairbanks waterfront activities (Figure 4.2).
Area B1 is located along the south bank of the Chena River at the intersection of Barnette Street and First Avenue. Steamboat landings occurred in this area before the main docks were built and it also was known as an area where bank stabilization occurred. The embankment also received refuse disposal and fill throughout the first four decades of Fairbanks' history (Figure 4.2).
Area B2 is located along the south bank of the Chena River east of Barnette Street. The area was selected to investigate structural and cultural remnants at the location of the former Northern Commercial Company (NC Co.) Dock (Figure 4.2).

Figure 4.2. Map showing Areas A, B1, B2, and C investigated on the south side of the Chena River, outline of the former California Saloon, and areas of proposed impacts.

Area C is located in the city block beginning at the southwest corner of First Avenue and Barnette Street (Block 16, Lots 1 and 2). The lot included at least two cabins which existed prior to the fall of 1904 and the gold rush era California Saloon, built in the fall of 1904. The latter structure remained on site until 1946 as a series of businesses; most recently, the Chena Bar and Grill (Figure 4.2). During the analytical phase of the project, Area C was subdivided into Areas C1, C2, C3, and C4 to account for differences in site structure relating to artifact assemblage composition, architectural history, and post-depositional processes.
Areas E and F are located at the proposed crossing of Noyes Slough (Figure 4.3). It had been the location of the early Tanana Mill operations, one of the earliest sawmills in Fairbanks. Background research compiled for this study also suggested that the area might contain prehistoric or ethnohistoric site materials.

Figure 4.3. Map showing Areas E and F investigated along Noyes Slough and the proposed realignment of Illinois Street.

Area G lies north of the Chena River under the Samson Hardware parking lot. Test units were placed to investigate the possible remnants of gold rush activities on the former beach adjacent to Samson Hardware. Additional excavation focused on the Riverside Block, which had a short lifespan before removal and demolition for the Alaska Railroad (Figure 4.4).

Figure 4.4. Map showing Area G investigated on the north side of the Chena River, outlines of former buildings, and areas of proposed impacts.

Hart Crowser, Inc., and its primary subcontractor, Northern Land Use Research, Inc. (NLUR), conducted the archaeological program under contract to ADOT & PF. Field seasons ran from September 2 to October 7, 1992, and from August 16 to October 8, 1993. A brief assessment underneath the Samson Hardware building was added in 1996. The first season focused on a program of testing, with a contingency plan to mitigate effects on significant resources. The second season completed testing and collected additional data on areas within the right-of-way that appeared to meet criteria of significance for the National Register of Historic Places (NRHP).

The 1992 Test Excavations. The 1992 season focused on the testing program in Areas A, B1, B2, and C (Figures 4.2 and 4.5). Test units consisted of trenches subdivided into 2x2 meter excavation units (EUs) within an overall area control grid (Appendix 9). Mechanical equipment removed the upper disturbed levels, whereas field personnel excavated artifact-rich zones by hand (shovel and trowel). The following summarizes findings of the 1992 test program.

Figure 4.5. View of excavation areas along First Avenue before and during archaeological excavations. View to the east from roof of Chena View Hotel. NLUR Photo (BAR-92-29-41; -93-37-33).

Area A - California Saloon refuse deposit. Excavations consisted of one trench of four EUs (8 meters long) along the river bank parallel to First Avenue. Our units were placed in an area just east of the former Pioneer Dock. A series of deposits and features dating as early as circa 1901, as well as elements relating to later river bank stabilization and development were identified.

The majority of the earliest excavation levels (Levels 3 and 4; Appendix 1) contained a variety of historic artifacts such as bottles, glass, wooden barrels, a leather gold poke, poker chips, dice, and spectacles associated with refuse disposal from businesses along First Avenue. The assemblage in particular reflects activities at the California Saloon site, which occupied the lot immediately across First Avenue. In addition, we encountered structural remains (deadman timbers in the bank) probably associated with a wooden platform at the end of the former Pioneer Dock. Excavation depth to culturally sterile sediments ranged between 1.5 and 1.75 meters.

Area B1 - River Bank Refuse Dump. In 1992, we placed three (2x2 m) EUs in a north-south trench on the river bank at the end of Barnette Street. This area was used for general townsite trash disposal, and during the "Steamboat era" it may have been used as a steamboat turnaround area by the NC Co. (Section 2.2 and Appendix 10). Excavations extended to a depth of 3 meters and encountered a heavy ash layer containing artifacts. The NC Co. used the river bank area for disposal of coal ash and clinkers from their central city heating plant between the mid 1920s to about 1950, after they abandoned their dock and river operations. This coal ash, which we refer to throughout the report as "NC boiler ash," provides a temporal context for late-1920s to circa 1950 deposits, and is synonymous with the "Railroad era" of Fairbanks' history (Section 2.2 and Appendix 10). Evaluation of the artifacts from these levels suggests an assemblage that is more characteristic of domestic rather than strictly commercial disposal.

Area B2 - Northern Commercial Company Dock. Another three-EU trench ran perpendicular to the river bank to intercept the location of the NC Co. Dock. We encountered both the NC boiler ash layer, which post dates the demolition of the dock, as well as a thick mat of wood planking and timbers below the ash. In contrast to Areas A and B1, artifact density was low. The material culture assemblage is dominated by architecture-related artifacts interspersed among the dock timbers. Several shipping tags were found including a lead customs seal for shipment via Skagway.

Area C - California Saloon Block. The 1992 program design called for one trench consisting of four EUs (8 meters long). This design provided a cross section through the edge of Barnette Street, the sidewalk area, and the eastern edge of Lots 1 and 2 of Block 16 (near the southwest corner of First Avenue and Barnette Street). Excavations extended to a depth of approximately 3 meters, and revealed the following features.

An intact section of the foundation wall and associated artifacts from the California Saloon complex. The intact condition of the wall/foundation and associated stratigraphy suggested that additional deposits likely maintained their historic integrity, including a builders' trench dating to 1904 and interior fill.
Intact Fairbanks ground surfaces predating 1904, areas under the sidewalk, and part of Barnette Street.
A feature east of the saloon building that relates to a pre-1904 cabin formerly located on the designated city lot, although the remains also extended into Barnette Street.
An underground storage tank, installed in the 1960s for a gas station, had disturbed the central portion of the northeast corner of the lot.

The testing demonstrated that intact and potentially significant archaeological materials lay within the Area of Potential Effect. A decision was made in September 1992 to recover data from the cabin area to avoid future closure of the street area (as further discussed below). Consequently, testing operations on the north side of the Chena River (Areas E, F, and G) were deferred to the 1993 field season.

Significance Determinations from the 1992 Test Operations. Consultation with Tim Smith (acting as SHPO representative) occurred at various points throughout the testing program. Based on his visits and associated discussions among ADOT & PF representatives and on-site contractors, the following NRHP eligibility determinations were made:

Remnants of the cabin feature zone in Area C were intact and historically significant. Because they fell in direct line with the sewer outfall system, mitigation through data recovery was recommended.
Portions of the former California Saloon (also in Area C) appeared intact and likely continued as such within the right-of-way impact area. Features and materials related to the saloon were considered significant.
The dense river bank refuse component in Area A, related to the early gold rush period and likely to activities at the California Saloon, were considered significant resources. The variety of beverage containers and personal/recreational materials provided an excellent assemblage relating to defined research issues. In particular, the gold rush age component was considered significant.
Components in Area B1 relate to defined research issues, especially those addressing Fairbanks' response to disasters. However, because a sufficient amount of data were recovered during testing, no additional work was required in this area following the 1992 testing program.
Excavations in Area B2 were inconclusive. While the observed structural remnants and artifacts appeared related to the NC Co. Dock, 1992 excavations were not sufficient to confirm this or to provide information on construction and use of the dock. Additional testing was recommended to clarify the nature and integrity of the structure.

Goals established for a second season included: 1) completing objectives of the testing program; and 2) mitigating impacts to significant resources within the construction corridor.

The 1993 Test Excavations. The 1993 testing program expanded excavations in Area B2 (the NC Co. Dock); investigated the Noyes Slough crossing and approach (Areas E and F, Figure 4.3) with a series of shovel/auger holes; and placed six backhoe trenches in the Riverside and Samson Hardware blocks (Area G), as shown in Figure 4.4. Methods followed those generally applied during the previous season (Appendix 9). This section summarizes our findings.

Area B2 - Northern Commercial Company Dock. One additional EU extended the previously excavated trench toward the river and to much deeper levels than were reached in 1992. The trench reached a depth of approximately 3 meters below the sidewalk surface, and terminated when groundwater inhibited further investigation (at about river level). The excavations revealed log cribbing associated with the underpinnings of the dock and a river bank erosion protection bulkhead. The riverside surface of this feature clearly shows on historic photographs from the early 1900s (Figures 4.53 and 4.54).

We excavated one "cell" of the cribbing, which included "deadman" timbers (logs set perpendicular to the river to secure dock foundations or revetments) anchored in the river bank. The scant artifacts related mostly to construction materials, early 20th century electrical utilities associated with the dock, and a variety of shipping-related artifacts (e.g., the previously mentioned customs seal and shipping tags). Utilities and river bank construction likely have destroyed this feature to the west within the primary project impact zone. Intact sections likely occur to the east outside of the project area, possibly as far east as the Cushman Street Bridge. Based on this assessment, we reached the following conclusions:

The findings of the 1993 testing program clarified the question of integrity as requested by the SHPO representative, and the feature and associated site materials were deemed eligible to the NRHP; and
The excavations, placed within the NC Co. Dock foundation, yielded sufficient data to adequately mitigate project impacts within the construction zone.

Areas E/F - Noyes Slough Crossing. The north and south shores of Noyes Slough were tested at approximate nodes of a 5x7 meter grid in a band extending 10 meters from each shoreline (Figure 4.3). Shovel tests in a 10x10 meter grid covered the area of the south approach. The work tested for both historical and prehistoric materials in proximity to the slough. Unlike other areas of the project, these areas had not been surveyed or tested under previous contracts.³ Testing efforts reached the following conclusions:

No prehistoric materials or features were identified through the testing program;
Relatively recent fill has been extensively placed adjacent to the Noyes Slough embankment and no diagnostic or historically significant artifacts were identified through the testing program;
The likelihood of significant historic or prehistoric resources in these areas appears low, and no impacts are anticipated.

Area G - Samson Hardware and the Riverside Block. The 1993 testing of the Samson Hardware parking lot/Riverside Block excavated six trenches (T-1 through T-6; Figure 4.4) oriented east-west and placed 16 to 20 meters apart. A 1920s map showing the location of historic structures (just prior to their relocation or demolition) guided test unit placement with an emphasis on possible cellar locations (Figure 4.60). The excavations reached a maximum depth of about 3 meters.

We encountered a large (11 meter long) intact, board-lined cellar at the north end of the block (T-5) at the location of the former Miners' Home Saloon and Restaurant (Figure 4.4). Artifact density near the floor level was high, five bottles of Guinness beer with readable labels and original contents were among the items recovered. According to period newspaper accounts, the Miners' Home was one of several buildings demolished when the Alaska Railroad took over the area in 1923 (several of the other buildings were moved at that time to the Samson Hardware Block).

A second smaller cellar appeared at mid-block (T-2), relating to the original location of the International Hotel, which was moved in 1923. Artifacts were not as abundant and preservation of the structure was less complete then the Miners' Home. No other deep historic subsurface (basement) features appeared in the remaining trenches, as railroad and parking lot development had disturbed near-surface materials. Newspaper accounts suggest that the Alaska Daily Citizen building at the south end of the block, which burned in 1920, had a boiler room cellar. However, as project activities will not affect the south end of the Riverside Block, this area was not tested.

The final 15-meter-long trench (T-6) exposed an area 5.5 meters south of the Samson Hardware building. This trench was dug into a point bar deposit that was used historically for storage and unloading supplies from the Chena River steamers and, in the first years of the gold camp, as a tent camp by miners. Excavations confirmed that fill, ranging in depth from 1.5 to 3 meters, covers the former point bar south of the hardware building. Excavations identified artifacts from mixed stratigraphic contexts representing a 30 year time span.

A brief survey to assess condition of reported materials beneath the Samson Hardware store itself followed in the fall of 1996. This investigation assessed the archaeological potential beneath the building (both in-ground and within the crawl space), and examined the architectural fabric and construction to confirm previous determinations on the building's historic significance.

Our investigations corroborate previous findings concerning the building's non-eligibility status for the National Register. Although the building is of significance to Fairbanks' history, substantial alterations had been made to the building in 1969-70 that severely compromised the structure's architectural integrity. Also, no significant historic artifacts lie in the crawl space beneath the building. Due to mixing of sediments from recent construction, the likelihood of finding intact buried archaeological deposits is low.

Significance Evaluations from the 1993 Test Excavations. The following recommendations and actions were made in concert with the ADOT & PF and SHPO representatives:

The NC Co. Dock bulkhead provides engineering and some artifactual record about the early waterfront structures and activities. Although historically significant, we believe that most of the remaining intact dock and bulkhead structure lies east of the area of effect. Therefore, no additional mitigation efforts are necessary for the ADOT & PF project.
The Miners' Home cellar was considered eligible to the National Register based on the extent and intact nature of the deposits demonstrated through testing. We anticipated that information related to "trailhead" miner clientele (as opposed to the waterfront California Saloon) would be obtainable through analysis of recovered data. We evaluated potential impacts with ADOT & PF engineers and concluded that construction activity impacts would extend to the cellar floor level.
The International Hotel cellar and a cellar at the former Alaska Daily Citizen building at the south end of the block (inferred from newspaper accounts but not encountered in the testing program) lie within a proposed park and bike path zone between Cushman Street and the proposed Barnette Street bridge approach. Except for utility line installations, this area will not incur subsurface impacts. Coordination with project engineers enabled relocation of currently planned utilities to areas that would avoid and preserve subsurface remnants of the Riverside Block.
The Samson Block testing suggested that what remains of cultural materials within and beneath the fill on the river bank and beneath the Samson building would not provide significant information relating to research issues. Investigations of the subsurface crawl space confirmed previous assessments that the building has lost characteristics of architectural integrity that would otherwise make it eligible for inclusion on the NRHP.

Additional Data Collection

Based on recommendations of NRHP eligibility from the ADOT & PF archaeologist and the Hart Crowser-NLUR team, and concurrence by the SHPO, mitigation of adverse project effects through data recovery occurred within the designated right-of-way at the Cabin Feature (Area C), the California Saloon complex (Areas C and A), and the Miners' Home cellar (Area G). As noted above, testing efforts collected adequate data samples, documented structural remains, and served to mitigate impacts for cultural resources found in Areas B1 and B2. Mitigation efforts were not necessary in Areas E/F and the remaining portions of Area G.

Cabin Feature Mitigation. Excavations mitigating impacts to the Area C Cabin (Features 2 and 8; Appendix 5) occurred during the 1992 field season. The cabin consisted of a layered organic mat and associated artifacts within a slight (approximately 30-40 cm deep) historically excavated pit. Mitigation consisted of opening nine EUs expanding north of the original test trench. We followed and documented undisturbed portions of the original ground surface surrounding the subterranean portion of the feature. In addition to the artifacts, which suggested a pre-1904 construction date, we exposed and documented wagon wheel ruts and pre-1901 tree roots within the historic surface (Figure 4.7). Excavation recovered 100% of the remaining feature area, as the California Saloon cellar (to the west) and recent First Avenue improvements (to the north and east) obliterated remaining portions of the historic cabin.

California Saloon Mitigation. The California Saloon operated from 1905 to about 1917. It subsequently became a dry goods store and clothing store during part of the Prohibition period (1918-33), and then reopened as an entertainment establishment, the Chena Bar and Grill. The structure burned in 1946.

The mitigation plan for the California Saloon area selected 22 EUs (of a possible 67 EUs not already excavated, representing a 33% area sample) within the project right-of-way (Figure 4.2). Adjustments responding to field findings resulted in actual excavation of 27 EUs, increasing the sample to 39%. The units covered the following areas, with the intent to maximize recovery in probable higher use functional zones:

Front (north) and east sidewalk areas near known historical doorways and the associated transition to interior spaces (Areas C1 and C2);
The eastern wall, foundation, and cellar of the main saloon (Area C3);
A deep cellar of the saloon annex, built circa 1906 (Area C4);
The juncture between the original structure and the annex (Areas C3 and C4); and
Interior areas of both former structures (within the construction right-of-way; parts of Areas C1, C2, C3, and C4).

In the area of the California Saloon building, 46,830 artifacts were recovered . We encountered clear architectural details for foundation construction as well as cellars to both the primary and addition buildings.

Although remodeled extensively on several occasions, the original California building remained essentially intact until destroyed by fire and demolished in 1946. Debris from the fire littered the cellar, along with a variety of artifacts dating from the building's inception to its destruction. Owners of the California building built an annex (which in early days served as a bowling alley) shortly after the main building construction. Subsequent changes demolished the one-story extension by about 1920. The annex cellar contained an extensive array of artifacts, including a bottle cache within a sump.

California Saloon Refuse Deposit Mitigation. Mitigative data recovery expanded on previous tests in Area A one unit northward toward the Chena River. We completed three full units and a portion of a fourth. Efforts centered on areas affected by a proposed storm drain outfall.

A total of 35,536 artifacts were recovered from the testing and mitigation efforts in Area A. This assemblage represents diverse activities of river bank refuse deposits. Materials (e.g., bottles, gaming pieces, and other early saloon period artifacts) correlate closely with the California Saloon activities. The second season's materials expanded the assemblage in terms of both volume and variety. Artifacts recovered include materials from a wider source area and represent more diverse activities than those encountered in 1992. For example, during the 1993 excavations, we recovered a wide variety of horse shoes, a wagon wheel, and a double-ender sled runner. In the lowest cultural levels of Area A a high proportion of burned construction material and architectural debris was present, relating to the May 22, 1906 fire that destroyed most of downtown Fairbanks.

Miners' Home Saloon Mitigation. Anticipating an almost complete cellar under the Miners' Home site, the mitigation design sampled expected functional areas of the floor (e.g., entry, perimeter storage, central floor space). Excavation of seven and one half EUs revealed a partial cellar consisting of roughly a 27x18 foot main area underneath the north end of the former building location, with a 12x12 foot "ell" centered along the south edge of the cellar. Excavations identified a variety of architectural features including storage "benches" along the perimeters, a main entry stairwell to the west, and a double-wall wood framing system that served as the exterior retaining wall.

The floor and wall boards along the eastern wall of the cellar were charred attesting to a small fire, perhaps associated with the former location of a wood stove (Figure 4.64). Some glass bottles apparently exploded due to the heat, and many melted artifacts were also collected. High artifact densities found around the entire perimeter of the cellar suggest an incomplete post-fire cleanup. This may indicate that the fire caused abandonment of the cellar, or that it occurred shortly before the building was demolished in 1923.

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