People from the Lower 48 long saw Anchorage as a pit stop between the airport and the wilds, the place to stock up on insect repellent and Mars bars. But the West's final frontier town offers an increasing number of civilized diversions, in particular a highly individual culinary scene and a new state-of-the-art resort. Travelers are taking notice: Anchorage isn't just for adventures anymore. But children on their way to school still take care to avoid wandering moose.
WHERE TO STAY
A Baron's Life SWAN HOUSE BED & BREAKFAST 6840 Crooked Tree Dr.; 800/921-1900 or 907/346-3033; doubles $159. When the Texans came north during the Prudhoe Bay oil boom, they created their own little Dallas on the Hillside, building vast mansions with vistas of the city and Mount McKinley. The boom is now bust, and one of these trophy homes, Swan House, is a B & B with custom oak woodwork, sweeping expanses of glass, and two antiques-filled guest rooms with private bath and telephone.