Tanaina Peak
by Greg Higgins, 1/82

History Corner.  The huge rampart of Tanaina Peak is easily seen from Anchorage to the left of Campbell Creek's North Fork.  At 5300+ feet, the Eastern Summit is in the top three of the front range 5000 footers, while the 5200+ foot Western Peak ranks either 4th or 5th (Ramp, 5240').

The two summits are separated by about 3/4 mile, and the terrain between them is gentle.  The ridge that leads west toward Tikishla (5100+') drops off steeply in places, and is usually not traversed.  From the higher summit two ridges branch off: One goes to the north and connects with far distant Temptation; the second leads east to the summit of Koktoya (5100+') over one mile distant.

The name of this mountain gained official USGS approval in 1967, but was then only applied to the higher summit, rather than to the whole complex.  The Tanaina were a tribe of Cook Inlet Indians.  Names for other features in this area were taken from their language.  Climbers have approached this peak usually from the Williwaw Lakes or from Near Point, although access from the old military roads below Campbell Creek's North Fork is also logical.

Rod Wilson, his son Brian, and Ted Shohl reported the first known ascent of the West Summit on September 4, 1966.  On May 5, two years later, Rod returned to make the first known ascent of the higher summit.  Accompanying him were his wife Gwyn, Lotte Kramer, Chuck Wettling, and Marie Doyle.  The first Winter Climb occurred in December 1973.  Mark Rainery, then chairman of the Club's Huts and Cabins Committee, was killed on this trip in an avalanche on January 1 after completing the first Winter ascent of nearby Koktoya.