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Koktoya - Williwaw Trip
by Joe Anders, Scree 7/97
It's been quite some time anything on Koktoya has appeared in Scree, so thought I'd write up a recent trip. Koktoya is one of the more elusive Front Range 5000 footers and is probably the least climbed. Koktoya means "moose" in Tanaina and is located east of Tanaina Peak where the ridge turns to the south towards Williwaw. There is a tragedy associated with the mountain - 16 year old Mark Rainery was killed in an avalanche on Tanaina after a Koktoya winter ascent attempt in 1974.
June 23 - a clear sunny day. Started at Glen Alps, crossed the Football Field past O'Malley, down to Williwaw lakes, up valley to Rock Lake. Up the partially snow filled SW gully to the top of the ridge, then up to Williwaw. Pick your way down and across the ridge between Williwaw and Koktoya, staying on the east side of the ridge in the steep places. The ridge opens up to a meadow at the low point of the saddle. I tried to continue up the ridge, but stopped when the climbing got a little more technical than I was comfortable with. Traversed around to the west face and found a gully that lead to the summit ridge. A pleasant patch of grass on one of the high points is a nice place to enjoy great views of Ship Valley and the other 5000 footers. Descended the same scree gully I ascended, crossed over the pass that separates the Long and Williwaw lake valleys, the hiked out the Williwaw lake trail back to Glen Alps. 4 hours to Williwaw, 2 hours to Koktoya and 4 hours back to Glen Alps. A helmet would have been reassuring - there are several rockfall hazard areas. A wonderful trip and bautiful scenery.
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