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O'Malley Peak
by Greg Higgins, Scree 4/82
History Corner. From the earliest days of hiking and climbing in the Anchorage area, O'Malley Peak has been the most popular 5000 footer. The name is unofficial and was derived from the fact that is was initially known as the mountain behind O'Malley Road. Its summit is surveyed at over 5100 feet which ranks it with Tikishla and Koktoya among the skyline 5000 footers. The top of O'Malley offers what is probably the finest view of the Anchorage Bowl.
The fierce demeanor of O'Malley's North Face seen from Anchorage is belied by the gentle nature of its other exposures. The East Ridge from the top reaches to Hidden Peak (5105') less than one mile away. The West Ridge towards Little O'Malley (4200') is the usual route to the summit. It is gained either by using the rocky couloir to the south of tiny Deep Lake on the mountain's west side, or by coming to it from the south. A peculiar bench on the mountain's north side offers an unusual, but not easily accessible campsite.
Recorded trips to the top of O'Malley began in 1957 when Johnny Johnston made the first known ascent. The first trip to the top listed in SCREE was in 1959 by Larry Johann, Joe Hill and Rod Wilson (1:9:3). Rod Wilson was back in 1963 to lead the MCA sponsored 1st winter ascent. In that group were Kim Degenhardt, Don and Dave Devoe, Dale Hagen, Ted Shohl, and Steve Shrader (5:4:1).
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