Mt Bashful (8005')
by Greg Higgins, Scree 4/81

History Corner.  Rumor was in 1959 that the highest peak in the Chugach west of Lake George was Mt. Bashful nestled above the Eklutna Valley.  It was thought to be over 8000' high which proved to be correct when it was finally surveyed 8005'.  The name was reportedly coined by Jerry Nelson because of its shy position behind towering Bold Peak.

Five intrepid MCA'ers flew (no road) to the south end of Eklutna Lake on July 17 hoping to eliminate Bashful's untrodden status.  Paul Crews, Johnny Johnston, Rod Wilson.  Greg Erickson and Helga Bading camped the 1 night in the forest below the dramatic twin waterfalls that drain the bowl north of the peak.  In the morning they moved up the steep aldered hill to the bowl thus entering Bashful's inner sanctum.

The climb up the west ridge was initially done in drifting clouds with Bold Peak peering through on the left.  To their right they could descry a huge monolith capped in a cloud they hoped was lower than the mountain they were on.  Rod Wilson dubbed it "Baleful".  When it was finally surveyed it topped out just below 8000'.

When they neared the summit, the cloud cover lifted and they were treated to tremendous views towards Marcus Baker and Nither spoon.  Eyeballing "Old Baleful" they were convinced (correctly) that it was lower.  Helga said that they, had to be careful not to knock one another of the top while building a summit cairn.  They left a bright red register can with writing materials.

The 2nd ascent did not occur until July of 1965 when Art Davidson and a Mr. Nakamura put up a new route on the North Face.  Interestingly enough Art was also involved in the 1st ascent of sinister Mt. Baleful that year.  He and Vin Hoeman successfully traversed Baleful's SW ridge in August to pick off what was then the highest and most impressive of the untouched near range summits.