A Climb On Korohusk (7030')
by Steve Markiewicz, Scree 8/78

May 27, 1978.  Saturday, May 27th, found Tom Smayda, John Van Alphen and me heading up the Eagle River Valley following the river trail a few miles before bushwhacking up the northern side.  Arms got scratched as we worked our way up to a large snow-filled basin that was once a glacier.  Enroute, Tom and I climbed around on a frozen snow waterfall which reminded us of New England ice climbing in late season.

We set up John's mountain dome in the basin, below the south face of Korohusk (7030').  Soon we filled up on tuna helper and Swiss Miss.  Not used to all this Alaskan night light, Tom and I sat around outside a few hours before retiring.  Next morning we headed towards the head of the basin and climbed towards the East ridge.  We climbed up steep snow gullies separated by some rotten rock traverses.  A large rock whizzing past my leg kept things interesting.  On the knife-edge ridge, we poked our axes through overhanging cornices and played "enemy spy" though rock and snow was all to be seen.  Some light flurries and wind accompanied us on and off and the clouds were all around, but it was still very nice weather and views for us.  Next climb remember to bring a pencil so as to write us into posterity on the summit.

The descent was down the south face.  We followed a long snow gully to its end, then traversed west over two rock ribs and followed another snow gully till that ended.  Traversing east, we found our final snow gully and happily glissaded down to the basin.  We ate our mac and cheese, broke camp and headed down.  A cold beer at Paradise Lodge and a later pork chop dinner, courtesy of John's wife, Gail, ended a fine trip.  And my super guides are finally broken in nice.