SNOW * ICE * ROCK * MOUNTAINEERING * AVALANCHE
Many climbers have specific ambitions in terms of ascents or instruction, and a Private Instruction Course offers unlimited flexibility in course structure, timing and content. The program allows participants to choose the duration of a course, the content and the commencement date. Participants may also have one or two friends to share the experience, and in this case offers the perfect alternative to a scheduled course. While costs are very competitive, standards remain high. We list several ideas and options here to help you in planning your Private Instruction Course.
We think it takes a long time and a lot of craft and even a bit of art to make the best mountaineering instructors. We at Alpine Guides Alaska, and that means me, David Staeheli, has been intensively instructing for 23 years. While many competing programs delegate their instructional programs to their junior guides as a way to build experience, with AGA you get the instructor with the experience! We teach no-nonsense, state-of-the-art mountaineering with skills you can really use! With one of the best instructors in the business and a personalized course, it may provide you with the best combination for your learning experience.
This is our most popular private instruction course. Taking place over one or two days at the Matanuska Glacier, one hundred miles north and east of Anchorage, this course can fulfill a variety of student learning needs. As a private instruction course, we take each student or small group, verify what needs to be learned and tailor the day to their needs. Each student arrives with a different experience level and we expand on that over the next day or two to broaden their glacier travel skills. Skills taught can be as simple as the first time wearing crampons, basic crampon and ice axe techniques, rope travel on a glacier, discussions on basic equipment and practice of simple crevasse rescues, including self rescue and hauling systems. Students with more experience in climbing or previous skills learned in glacier travel may learn sophisticated hauling systems, self rescue in a variety of scenarios, expeditionary glacier travel techniques or more advanced crampon and ice axe techniques. As a private instruction course we can tailor the day to meet each individual's needs and schedule.
This private course can be run April through September. Road transportation from Anchorage will only be provided at the instructors convenience. Course fee is dictated by the "Private Instruction" rate plus the entrance fees to the glacier.
As a venue for alpine instruction, this area is hard to beat. The granite peaks and approach glaciers provide ample varied terrain to cover all the basics and much more. We will start with a one-day hike into the alpine valley close to the Mint Glacier Hut. The next few days will usually begin with a short walk to the instructional venue of the day, stopping along the way for practicing new techniques on terrain of opportunity. On a five-day outing, expect to learn glacier travel and safety, basic mountaineering techniques, and hopefully climb a summit. With seven days, learn to lead a climb on steep snow, ice in season, and definitely alpine rock. Typically the evening will be rounded out with discussion on mountain skills. There will be a half-day hike out from the hut.
This course is suitable from mid-June through early-September. Groups of more than one person are booked at the standard "High Guiding" rate.
Special One Person Package Price: 5 days - $1,150.00
On the south side of Denali (the real name for Mt. McKinley) lies a rugged area of granite peaks and glaciers known as Little Switzerland. This area has long been known to locals as a dramatic and quality cragging destination with a wide variety of terrain to climb on. Recently this area has been published in national climbing and skiing magazines, yet even in Alaska it could not be called crowded. It is really a quite spectacular area.
A mountaineering course in this location has several advantages. First, this is very much an Alaskan tradition, to hop in a small bush plane and fly into a glacier for some climbing or skiing action. Then there is the town that we start our trip from, Talkeetna, which is quite well know internationally as the jumping off spot for expeditions into the Alaska Range. While it has gotten a bit touristy over the years, it still has its population of eager eyed climbers waiting to fly into Denali, or it's "thousand-mile-stare" veterans recuperating from their ordeals. But once we are in Little Switzerland, it is the Pika Glacier and it's surrounding peaks that gives us the reason to choose this area. It will be snow camping all the way and we will just have to deal with it! Early season we may have to use snowshoes or skis to navigate around. Later we can just "boot it". For those interested, we can add an expeditionary techniques component, learning to deal with sleds, simulated heavy packs and fixed lines. There are excellent crevasses to rescue ourselves out of, steep snow slopes to perfect crampon technique on as well as rock to lay our hands on. A summit or two or three should also be in the agenda. This is a great area to spend four to ten days in while we pick up those needed mountaineering skills.
Booked only on a private basis and at the standard "High Guiding" rate. Recommended times are June through early August. Air charter is required.
When we get a request for a very special experience that combines mountaineering instruction with peak climbing, we think of a small range of peaks lost deep within Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. We really like this place, first because it is the "Wrangells", and then second because it is this hidden playground of peaks that is so remote that few have ever explored it's glaciers and summits. We like how remote, how far back from the roads it is. It is a real Alaskan journey just to get there. And even though we have taken a bush plane flight just to get close, we then do it the old fashioned way, climbing up from the river bottom, following stream beds and mountain sheep trails to get up on the glaciers where we can start our intended activities. The whole experience, of being really out there is hard to beat!
July to mid-August are about the best times to go to this location. Air charter will be required. Expect longer travel times and a higher air charter rate. We recommend at least a week for this trip. Only booked at the "High Guiding" rate.
Alpine Guides Alaska is now offering an introductory mountaineering course at our own privately owned mountaineering hut in the Talkeetna Mountains. This an ideal venue for instruction, practice and climbing in not so intimidating terrain and yet still has the variety for us to teach a complete range of introductory skills. This course is designed for the novice wanting to learn the very basics in how to get around safely and efficiently in the mountains. And by using our well appointed hut, it will allow us the ability to keep our packs light for added enjoyment!
Our trip into the mountains would begin with an approximately six hour hike up Glacier Creek, over the pass to the Snowbird Glacier and our very own hut. The next two or three days we would spend learning how to use crampons and ice axes, traveling on a glacier, a bit of crevasse rescue, use of rope on snow and rocky terrain, and other useful mountain skills. We would top off our adventure with a climb of one of the many peaks in the area such as Higher Spire. And as we learn and climb at your pace, expect to have a comfortable and enjoyable time! The trip will finish with an easy hike out through this beautiful alpine terrain.
This mountaineering course is booked only on a private basis. Groups of more than one person are booked at the standard "High Guiding" rate. Suitable only from mid-June through August.
Special One Person Package Price: 4 days - $8800.00 or 5 days - $1,100.00
We at AGA are not offering scheduled avalanche courses for 2003, but will be available for private instruction during March and April. For participants needing specific skills or having a restrictive schedule, our private avalanche instruction may be for you. Choose a day in the field for an introductory lesson on "red flags", avalanche rescue and terrain assessment, or a more complete course working with snowpack assessment, weather and involved discussions. Your instructor is an American Institute of Avalanche Research and Education (the national avalanche instructor rating and education organization) Level II recognized instructor and is fully qualified and experienced.
Course rate is at the Private Instruction rate. Although we encourage backcountry travelers to purchase and carry appropriate avalanche safety gear, for the purposes of this course we will provide these items if participants do not own any. Over snow transport (skis or snowshoes) are required, but may be available for loan with small parties.
Archangel Valley means rock! In Alaska, this is the most accessible quality rock to be found. Spend a day, or two or three, just yourself or with friends, learning to climb rock in this beautiful, high alpine valley. Work with any or all the styles; trad or sport, face or crack, bouldering to multi-pitch. Suitable mid-June through August. A day on the rock during those long Alaskan summer days is very pleasant indeed.
There is a wide selection of venues around the Anchorage area that are suitable for learning a variety of specialized climbing skills. Learn to rock climb along Cook Inlet or at Archangel Valley in the Talkeetna Mountains. Do a one or two day learning/fun climb on one of the local peaks. Learn to ice climb in season on one of the many waterfalls in the area, or on one of the glaciers in the summer. Contact AGA and we will be happy to design an one or two day outing according to your interests, skills and schedule.
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David Staeheli, Owner/Operator of Alpine Guides Alaska, has considerable experience instructing beginning and experienced mountain guides in the intricacies of this specialized discipline. From helping an aspirant guide take their first steps, to refreshers for experienced guides contemplating taking the American Mountain Guides Association Alpine Exam, or training seminars for guide services, Dave has the experience. For individual or group alpine guide training, contact AGA for this service.
David Staeheli HC, Box 5118 Wasilla, Alaska 99654-9703 (907) 373-3051 AlpineAK@aol.com
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