Mt. DrumAlpine Grade: II+ Trip Length: 6-9 days
A long volcanic ridge capped with snow and encrusted with glaciers, 12,010 foot Mt. Drum lies at the western edge of the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. Using an expeditionary approach with multiple camps and some load carrying, we climb the south-west ridge (Hurricane Ridge), beginning at an airstrip on the tundra or with a ski plane landing on the glacier, we ascend to our snowy high camp at about 10,000 feet. Although airy and steep in places, Mt. Drum offers esthetic, enjoyable and relatively secure climbing rated at an Alpine Grade 2+.
This climb is a favorite of AGA and offers an excellent introduction to "big" mountains. We recommend it highly for intermediate climbers, or fit novices in search of a real challenge. Although it might be possible to complete the climb in five or six days, most parties find seven or eight days to be more realistic. Air charter is required.
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Alpine Grade: I
Trip Length: 8 days or more
A 16,237 foot glacier capped volcano at the northwest end of the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, Mt. Sanford is one of North Americas highest peaks. Although the climbing is relatively easy at Alpine Grade 1, 13,000 vertical feet separate the landing strip at Windy Ridge from the broad summit plateau. Not many mountains have this much vertical gain on a regular climb. The strenuous but scenic route up the Sheep Glacier isn't especially steep, but will be moderately crevassed, requiring learnable crevasse safety skills. Other "big mountain" factors such as weather, high altitude, navigation and remoteness make for a full expedition climb.
This expedition is best for backpackers and beginning climbers, and because of its summit is so very high, Mt. Sanford is also ideal for climbers wanting experience at altitude. Climbers should be in good shape, as the climb is strenuous. We recommend a trip length of eight or nine days, although in early season (before May 15) a landing strip at about 7,000 feet on the Sheep Glacier offers a slightly shorter alternative. Air charter is required.
Randonnée (Alpine Touring) skiers take note that this is our biggest and best mountain for a large mountain ski descent!
Alpine Grade: ITrip Length: 10 days
Deep in the Wrangell Mountains lie the twin summits of Mount Bona and Churchill. At 16,421 feet, Mt. Bona is the fourth largest peak in the United States, and commands striking views of the many seldom-seen peaks of the Wrangell-St. Elias Mountains, such as Mounts Lucania, Logan and St. Elias. Moderate slope angles and an intricate route over glaciated terrain lead to the wide summit plateau between Bona and Churchill, while somewhat steeper angles on a broad ridge lead to the summit. Climbing Mount Bona differs from most expeditions in that we fly into an unusually high base camp, at 10,500 feet. This eliminates a long approach and vaults the expeditions team into the high-altitude climb. Because altitude is definitely a factor on this climb, we prefer to use expedition techniques, utilizing two or more camps in addition to base camp.
At Alpine Grade 1, this trip is a good introduction to the Wrangell-St. Elias Mountains and to high altitude mountaineering. Beginning climbers and backpackers will find the trip rewarding, because although travel distances and overall elevation gain are low, all other mountaineering challenges are present. We generally recommend eight or nine days for the climb, with a couple days dedicated to restaging out of Ultima Thule Lodge on the flight in. Air charter is required.
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Mt. BlackburnAlpine Grade: III+ Trip Length: 12-14 days
A long ice capped ridge rising to 16,390 feet, Mt. Blackburn is the highest peak in the front range of the Wrangell Mountains, and its heavily glaciated flanks feed a number of icefields. The standard climbing route follows the North Ridge via the Nebesna Glacier. A ski-equipped bush plane will insert the team at 7,200 feet at the base of the mountain, and from there we'll climb to a col at 10,000 feet. There the technical difficulties begin, with numerous crevasses and icefalls breaking up the ridge from 10,000 to 13,000 feet. Slow climbing and intricate route finding characterize this section, giving climbers necessary time to acclimatize before crossing the summit icecap. High camp above the icefalls commands a magnificent vista, stretching up and down the length of the Wrangell-St. Elias Mountains.
Mt. Blackburn is both high and technical, ideal for a climber seeking a serious challenge. At Alpine Grade 3+, the climbing demands a wide range of snow and ice skills. Altitude complicates matters, and terrain can hamper descent in bad weather conditions. To protect the climb adequately, large amounts of climbing gear must be taken. Snowshoes over skis are preferred for the climb to the col. Twelve to fourteen days are recommended for this expedition, and a low client/guide ratio is essential. Air charter is required.
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Alpine Grade: IV Trip Length: 8 days or more
This mountain is both technical and remote, located between the Barnard Glacier and the Canadian border in an area that until recently was virtually unexplored. Even today, many of the side glaciers and peaks of the area have yet to see a human footprint. Either a steep gully or an airy ridge must be climbed to reach a bivouac in a col at 11,000 feet. On summit day, the route proceeds to its most technical section. This involves face climbing the south ridge on a steep, exposed ice (55 degrees +) for multiple pitches. Gradually the ridge lays back to the 12,600 foot summit.
Mt. Naslund is a superb technical challenge n an alpine environment. Clients must have strong technical ability in crampon and double tool techniques, as the climb involves many classical alpine ice pitches. The route is best climbed in early or late season, avoiding poor snow conditions in mid-season. To climb Mt. Naslund, schedule seven or eight days. However, there are several unclimbed peaks in the area, and extra days would be needed if there is any interest in trying them. Snowshoes or skis would be advisable in early season, and air charter is required.
Mt. Marcus BakerAlpine Grade: II Trip Length:
This oft ignored peak is the highest in the Chugach Mountains and offers a pleasant and relatively short expedition. Yet, the mountain has a complex route and varied terrain that makes for a very interesting and challenging climb. We have two route options while climbing the mountain. From the north we start at the Scandinavian Hut and head up the south fork of the Matanuska glacier to the base of Marcus Baker, winding out way up ramps, crossing basins and traversing a ridge before ascending the final ice cap to the summit at 13,176 feet. From the south, we land at the head of the Kink Glacier above the ice falls and climb the south ridge. Several pitches of ice climbing are usually required to surmount the final ice dome. Expeditionary techniques will be used, with multiple camps and possible load carrying on the steeper sections. Expect to travel on skis or snowshoes, while pulling a sled, on the lower glacier.
This is a real expedition, but one that requires a relatively short period of time. Thus, we recommend the trip for those wishing a primer on expeditionary techniques.
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Alpine Grade: I Trip Length: 9 days or more
Just five miles from the Canadian border, this peak is about as deep in the Wrangell Mountains as one can get. For a ski mountaineering ascent, Mt. Bear gives everything that could be asked for. There are several route possibilities, including a traverse. And at 14,831 feet, Mt. Bear qualifies as a "big mountain". Routes will generally start from a glacier ski plane landing strip at about the 6-9,000 foot level.
Candidates for this climb should have intermediate skiing ability if skis are chosen as the oversnow technique and at least some experience in backpacking. Mountain skills are helpful, but not absolutely necessary as these skills can be taught as required during the expedition. At least seven days are recommended for the climb itself, plus two more days will be required restaging out of the remote Ultima Thule Lodge on the Chitna River. This is a minimum total of nine days, and if a traverse is contemplated, perhaps more days should be scheduled.
Okay, you want to try something truly different. Something that not many can make a claim to, or you are just that kind of person who needs to challenge the unknown. A person who knows that exploratory climbing doesn't always lead to success, but also knows how much sweeter the summit after the uncertainties of the journey. A person who is willing to work harder on the longer approach or take a much longer bush flight to get there. For a chance at that first, that unclimbed peak or that new route. A kind of person, to steal an adage from back country skiing, says " You put in first tracks, you can't take them back!". Then a First Ascent or a First Route trip may be for you. And Alaska is one of the few places you can do it.
Organizing a trip like this can be a bit different. First the route or peak chosen may only have been seen from a distance, a fly by in an aircraft or picked out from a map. Many times we have used climber/bush pilot extraordinair Paul Claus from Ultima Thule Outfitters help us choose a suitable area to climb in with very good results. If you need a day-to-day, blow-by-blow schedule of how the climb is going to go, this is not the trip for you. On the other hand, some say that this is the joy of climbing in Alaska. We won't be sure where we are going exactly, but we are going to have fun finding out. As the insatiably curious mongoose Riki-tiki-tavi of Kipling fame would say, "Lets run and find out!".
First ascent peaks that we typically try for are not major mountains, usually ranging in elevations from 6,000 to possibly 12,000 feet. Height is not an indication of difficulty, as we believe the highest unclimbed peak in America right now has only some moderately steep snow (could be an interesting ski descent) and although very remote, will not be very difficult. In looking for a more difficult peak, or a concentration of unclimbed peaks, or for more interesting climbing, peak elevation is only part of the picture. May of our first ascent peaks involve fairly long bush flights with possibly complicated logistics. With in our wish list of possible first ascents are more traditional climbs involving obligatory hard approach. For instance we know of a pair of peaks we have always wanted to do that are buried in the Talkeetna Range that will need as least two days of hard cross country marching to reach the bases of. But such nice prizes! Although we have pulled off a first ascent peak in as little as four days, we recommend longer as the smart thing to do.
We also recommend and enjoy First Routes. These can be on close and easily reached local peaks on up to major mountains. The latter are usually the goal and most practically done as an expedition. Some of our major and prominent mountains have only one or two routes that have been done on them, leaving some of the more difficult routes yet to do. A First Route can be a major challenge if you so desire with many of the same qualities of a First Ascent.
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