Alpine Grade: I Trip Length: 3 days or more
This high alpine traverse crosses two or three passes over the Penny Royal and Bomber Glaciers, involving variable terrain and some of the finest scenery in the Talkeetna Mountains. On the first day, we will hike through the lush Mint Valley for about six hours, following the Little Susitna River to its icy headwaters at the Mint Glacier. The trail gradually narrows and steepens until it reaches the area of the Mint Hut with postcard views of the surrounding peaks, glaciers, and waterfalls. Day two involves strenuous hiking on a steep scree over Back Door Gap, then an easy glacier traverse and gentle heather slopes leading down to the area of the Bomber Hut. Day three puts us onto the easy Bomber Glacier, over Bomber Pass, dropping down steep talus to picturesque Reed Lakes, and finally back to the trailhead in five or six hours.
The Bomber Traverse is highly recommended for backpackers or anyone wanting an introduction to high mountain travel. We keep packs light as possible for maximum enjoyment. Although crampons and ice axes are necessary, ropes are optional since the glaciers are fairly benign. Three days are the usual for a straight-through trip, but we recommend planning extra days in case of bad weather - or better yet, take extra days to do day hikes or scrambles. Variations include exiting via the Snowbird Glacier and staying another night at our own Snowbird Glacier Hut. Of special interest is the crashed B-29 bomber for which the Bomber Glacier, and this traverse, are named.
Of note, this is also one of our favorite winter ski traverses.
Alpine Grade: I-II Trip Length: 4-7 days
The Mint Glacier, named not for its flavor but for the gold found in the area, offers access to some of the best climbing in the southern Talkeetna Mountains. Most of the local peaks have ascent routes of variable difficulty between Alpine grades 1 and 2, and involve mixed climbing on rock, snow, and sometimes ice. Many of these are approaches via the easy Mint or Peppermint Glaciers. Recommended summits, reaching between 7000-8000 feet, include Peppermint, Spearmint, Doublemint and Montana. For a harder climb, try Troublemint. In addition, the Mint Glacier area provides a favorite venue for instruction in technical rock and snow climbing.
This is an excellent trip for beginning to intermediate climbers, or those wanting an introduction to climbing in an alpine environment. The beautiful scenery alone makes this trip worthwhile. Because it takes six hours to reach the area, we recommend three days minimum, but for maximum enjoyment we recommend four to seven.
This trip only recommended mid-June through early-September. Groups larger than one are booked at standard "High Guiding" rates.
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Alpine Grade: III Trip Length: 3 days
During a brief window between mid-July and mid-August, a gully shapes up on Troublemint Peak in the Mint Glacier Peaks that makes a superb alpine ice climb. The route is most definitly mixed, starting with a glacier approach, four to six pitches of +45 degree ice and snow, then a ridge scramble to the summit spire, rated 5.7. Quite an all around route in one of our favorite areas.
Climbers will need to be competent at front-pointing, double tooling and able to follow on 5.7 rock. Included in the guide fee is food and shelter.
Alpine Grade: I Trip Length: 5 days or more
This high traverse follows a chain of glaciers in the Chugach Mountains between Eklutna Lake and Crow Pass, and combines the feeling of remoteness with the comfort and convenience of mountaineering hut accommodations. The traverse must be done using skis or snowshoes in early season, but after about mid-July only boots with crampons are required. The presence of crevasses require the use of roped glacier travel techniques which can be learned enroute. Nearby peaks provide abundant opportunities for scrambling, for both humans and the frequently seen Dall Sheep.
A real mountaineering experience, this trip demands a reasonable standard of physical fitness. Most days will involve five to eight hours of travel time, including large elevation gains of up to 4500 feet. Generally, at least five days are required to complete the trip, and more may be scheduled depending on optional instruction, peak bagging, and the route chosen. For a very physically fit team we are willing to consider a three or four day traverse, but we stress the 'very' in very physically fit.
This is a "hut to hut" traverse which lets us keep our packs light for maximum enjoyment.
See Issue # 28 of Backcountry Magazine for an article written by Ty Boggs on an Alpine Guides Alaska ski traverse of the Eklutna, Memorial Day Weekend of 2001
We get a lot of requests from folks looking for a two day climb of one of the local peaks. For those folks we can cheerfully recommend one of these two peaks. These climbs, Granite Peak in the Talkeetna Range and Pioneer Peak in the Chugach Range, offer moderate technical climbing to a couple of the most sought after local summits of the area. Each climb will involve a day of approach and then a day for the climb to a summit and a hike out. If you are looking for a quality two day alpine experience, one of these peaks may be it for you!
Suitable only from mid-June through September. Climbers should be of very good physical conditioning
One Person Package Price: 2 days - $470.00
Two Person Package Price: 2 days - $350.00 per person
This is what the locals do for fun in the summer. Not as strange as it sounds, the Matanuska Glacier has easy road access and provides plenty of ice superbly suited for learning to ice climb. Or for learning many glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques. Make it a one or two day event, or try combining it with an alpine climb of a local peak or some rock climbing at the Archangel Valley. This could be a whole lot of fun!
In this alpine valley is some of the best rock climbing available in Alaska. Join us for one, two or more days of rock climbing or instruction on the granitic rock of this alpine playground. Most climbs are accessed via short hikes and the scenery is a bonus. Climbs vary from beginning to advanced, short top-rope problems to multi-pitched. So if you would like to try your hand at rock climbing, give us a call. Only available from June through August.
Alpine Guides Alaska
David Staeheli
HC, Box 5118
Wasilla, Alaska 99654-9793
(907) 373-3051
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